Crude City Scooter Club

[coyoteran]

Dumbass, died in the wool fool, moron, r-tard. All of the above......Cuz you know I don't have nearly enough pain in my life. I go and do this.

So, what can anyone tell me about
1. Taking a front brake from non-existant to at least existant.
2. How stiff the shifter should be.
3. How do you unlock the glove box if you have no key.
4. What common link is there between the horn, tail light, signal lights, and charging system that would cause all of them to not work. Headlight and speedo lights work (depends completely on rpms) and obviously the ignition works. Good battery but it does not charge when the engine revs. Holds exactly the same voltage as when the bike is off. The fuse by the battery is good.

Details
1980 PX200E
3381 Miles
Oil Injected (that may change)
Leo Vance Exaust
Rev limiter broken off (dunno if I am going to replace it or not..suggestions?)
Minor dings and scrapes all over the bike. Used to be red. No major body work that I could find. Starts first kick now that I put the right cap on the spark plug.
Oh, and it has too much chrome. Oh well.

Keep em shiny.
Trevor

[LibertineAudrey]

You know I cant help you, but MAN DO YOU ROCK!!!!

look at the CHROME!

look at the WHITE WALLS!

[jbcollier]

Invest in a 12v test light, jumper wires and an inexpensive multimeter.

Start with a charged, known good battery. Get your old battery tested at a motorcycle shop.

Wiring diagram:

http://scooterhelp.com/electrics/wiring/VSX1T.USA.after.pdf

Remove both cowls and the battery. Use the jumper wires to hook up the battery while it's out. Open junction block at engine. raise but do not electrically disconnect upper handlebar cowl (just disconnect speedo cable so you can raise it high enough)

Start scoot

1) Check for AC voltage at the regulator's yellow wire (terminal marked G).
Good? (18ish VAC when engine revved) Go to step 2.
- No or low voltage? First disconnect grey wire (terminal B+) and recheck.
Good? Short upstream on grey wire circuit. Often wire at ignition switch comes adrift and shorts out.
- Still no or low voltage? Check continuity between yellow wire at regulator and yellow wire at engine junction block (wires must be disconnected).
- Bad? Fix wire break: usually breaks at junctions (vibration) or near engine (heat and vibration).
Good? Check continuity between yellow wire at junction block going to engine and engine block.
- Bad? Stator needs rewiring.
Good? Check ground connections and continuity between stator and regulator (black wire and funny upside down arrow symbol at regulator).

2) Check for DC voltage at the grey wire (terminal marked B+).
Good (13.0v to 15.0v)? Go to step 3.
- No or low voltage? Disconnect grey wire (terminal B+) and check for voltage at terminal B+ again.
Good? Short upstream on grey wire circuit (see above).
- No or low voltage? Check ground wire connections (funny upside down arrow head marked terminal, engine block, regulator body and frame).
- Still no or low voltage? Replace regulator*.

3) Check for DC voltage at ignition switch terminal 1 (green and black wire).
Good? Go to step 4.
- No or low voltage? Check for continuity on green wire to turn signal relay and, from there, the grey wire to the regulator. Repair breaks or shorts as required.

4) Check for voltage at ignition switch terminal 3.
Good? Check for continuity on the red wire circuit to the fuse, battery and stator. Repair breaks or shorts as required.
- Low or no voltage? Replace ignition switch.

Probably missed something!

* new regulator may not have terminals in same order.

Front brake:
- remove drum, sand shoes and drum (new shoes if necessary).
- replace brake cable with teflon lined one.
- lube brake lever and cable nipple.

Shifting:
- lube handlebar shift tube
- replace gear cables with teflon lined ones (use very light lube on cables)
- might as well change clutch cable for teflon lined, too.

Glove box:
- drill out old lock
- replace with new one

Finally, get use to the sight of your wife laughing. She's not laughing with you, she's laughing at you!

[coyoteran]

Thanks John. I have seen about 6 wiring diagrams and this is the first one I have seen that makes sense. Every other one was layed over/integrated into the actual physical components. Tough to make heads or tails out of.

Cabling is reserved for winter project I think. Something to pick away at between shifts. Whereas the brakes, glovebox and electrical are here and now stuff. The rear brake is great. The front is non existant. I squeeze the handle, feel resistance in the handle but do not get the associated stoppage.

BTW John have you ever put a disk brake package on one of these? Seemed like a nifty idea. Cable runs the hydraulic lever mounted at the wheel.

And quelle surprise that Modrey likes it. Oooh look...a sparkly.
Trevor

[jbcollier]

You're an idiot? I'm an idiot! I forgot that electrics is your speciality as well. Dropped on my head as a youth is the only explanation that comes to mind.

The P/PX front brake is usually very effective and trouble free. The disc conversion only works if you also switch to a hydraulic headset ($$). The cable operated remote master cylinder gives a very mushy brake. I didn't find it acceptable and I was comparing it to the all but useless smallframe front brake. You will be happy with your drum set up when you have changed the cable and serviced the shoes and drum.

[Angelo]

[Angelo]

[Angelo]

[jbcollier]

I'm the smart one?

We're in trouble...

[coyoteran]

You know, it just occurred to me. I have the colours of the Italian flag, the Japanese flag and Canadian flag in my driveway. Dammit..victimized by subliminal suggestion again.

Another question for the masses...aka John (so, how you feel about an all expense paid trip to Colorado?) On the fuel petcock I have an A; Aperto or Open. A C;Chioso or Closed. Is there a reserve? Or middle ground between main and reserve. I have read lot's of divergent theories. I thought I would ask people I trust vice a bunch of random internet geeks.

On a totally unrelated note. You may remember I purchased an engine last year for the ET4. I asked Josh at Top Gear (the previous owner of said engine) if any CVT work had been done to the bike. He said no. Last week the wife and I were on a ride and the front pully broke loose from the splined shaft (sound familiar). Low and behold, on disassembly, the front pully nut had no lock tite on it and the clutch spring was a Mallossi. The cvt weights were also not stock. Couple grams heavier as it turns out. I put in the stock weights, left in the mallosi spring and the ET is a brand new bike in the hills of CS. Holds speed on the hills. Accelerates up hills and is a lot more fun to drive in town. Happy now but the question remains....Why don't people tell the truth when there can be no possible down side to telling the truth. Uhggg.

Keep em shiny folks.

Trevor

[jbcollier]

For a European model:

http://scooterhelp.com/serial/VSX1T.manual.html

Specifically:

http://scooterhelp.com/manuals/VSX1T.manual/058.jpg

US models use a different tap and mechanism that looks like the one in the bottom photo on this page:

http://scooterhelp.com/scooters/V9B1T.100.sport.html

If I remember correctly the center position is OFF with the two extremes being either ON or RESERVE. The fuel tap was a US-only spec and if the tap was changed, only European ones have been available as spares for a long time now.

[Angelo]

[GDOUBLEU]

congrats trevor...another pretty lady for your household!

[pk50]

I think you found sparkle motions long lost sister . The scoot looks great,now the fun begins.