Great! I just told him. He'll have to look up what's needed and let you know.
Thanks!
~M~
Vespa Maintenance
Moderator: Moderators
This is my first post... so Hi everyone.
My Wife and I just bought the Scooter that once belonged to the original poster of this Thread, Tron.
This Scooter as previously mentioned is in need of an Oil Change.
I went to Sherwood Motorcycle today and ordered an Oil Filter for the 2009 LX 150
Hopefully it's the right one. We looked it up in their book... and beside the Vespa LX150, was Part Number Hi-Flo HF-183 I was quoted 10 Bucks, which is OK, since I only have to buy a single Liter of Oil. This is cheapest Oil Change I've ever done, next to my Lawnmower.
Here's an interesting THREAD on Vespa Oil Filters.
How many Litres of Oil do these things take? The Manual says 0.26 Gallon or one Liter. Then the Manual also says 600-650cc as a certain amount remains in the circuit. Is there a recommended grade for our climate? The Manual says 5W/40 API SJ Synthetic.
As for the Oil Drain Plug, there is a reference to "B" but I can't find the Picture where "B" is shown.
Here are some pictures of the Hot Rod... this thing is in mint condition and the seller (Tron) was a pure Gentleman. He even delivered it to our House, as my Wife does not have her License yet.
I'm an Administrator on a GM Truck Site and a Moderator on a Infiniti Site... so I know my way around phpBB Sites as both of them use phpBB.
My Wife and I just bought the Scooter that once belonged to the original poster of this Thread, Tron.
This Scooter as previously mentioned is in need of an Oil Change.
I went to Sherwood Motorcycle today and ordered an Oil Filter for the 2009 LX 150
Hopefully it's the right one. We looked it up in their book... and beside the Vespa LX150, was Part Number Hi-Flo HF-183 I was quoted 10 Bucks, which is OK, since I only have to buy a single Liter of Oil. This is cheapest Oil Change I've ever done, next to my Lawnmower.
Here's an interesting THREAD on Vespa Oil Filters.
How many Litres of Oil do these things take? The Manual says 0.26 Gallon or one Liter. Then the Manual also says 600-650cc as a certain amount remains in the circuit. Is there a recommended grade for our climate? The Manual says 5W/40 API SJ Synthetic.
As for the Oil Drain Plug, there is a reference to "B" but I can't find the Picture where "B" is shown.
Here are some pictures of the Hot Rod... this thing is in mint condition and the seller (Tron) was a pure Gentleman. He even delivered it to our House, as my Wife does not have her License yet.
I'm an Administrator on a GM Truck Site and a Moderator on a Infiniti Site... so I know my way around phpBB Sites as both of them use phpBB.
Yup, lots of good info out there if you scratch around. It will take a full one litre of oil and perhaps a smidgeon more depending on how well you are able to drain out the old oil. I lean the bike from side to side to encourage as much of the old oil as possible to vacate the premises.
DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THE OIL. It's only one litre after all. I recommend using Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40. Canadian tire sells it.
Since it is the first service, you should change the final drive oil as well. New gears bed in together in the first several hundred kilometres and small amounts of metal deposits are produced.
Warm up the bike with a nice ride before changing the oils so everything is nice and warm and flows out easily.
Again, since this is the first service, make sure you cover everything in the first service list in the maintenance section of the workshop manual.
DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THE OIL. It's only one litre after all. I recommend using Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40. Canadian tire sells it.
Since it is the first service, you should change the final drive oil as well. New gears bed in together in the first several hundred kilometres and small amounts of metal deposits are produced.
Warm up the bike with a nice ride before changing the oils so everything is nice and warm and flows out easily.
Again, since this is the first service, make sure you cover everything in the first service list in the maintenance section of the workshop manual.
May I ask why you use ZERO weight Oil? That's light-weight. I use Zero weight in my Truck's engine when the Temperature is Minus 10*C or lower.
In the Vespa LX-150 Manual, it says to use 5W40... and that being said, today I bought a Litre of 10W40 Motul Full-synthetic Oil today from Argyl Cycle. Now I'm just waiting for the O-Rings to come in, from Alberta Cycle.
I feel I should be OK with using a heavier weight Oil. My reasons for this, is that the Bike is Air-cooled and it's only means of internal Cooling is the Oil going around in the Motor. When the Heat starts to build up and the Oil reaches it's point of breaking down, the heavier weight should help protect the Motor better.
Also, My Wife has no intention of driving her Scooter around when its colder. She says that's why she has a Car. So on a pleasant day, the Scooter will be on the Roads near you.
In the Vespa LX-150 Manual, it says to use 5W40... and that being said, today I bought a Litre of 10W40 Motul Full-synthetic Oil today from Argyl Cycle. Now I'm just waiting for the O-Rings to come in, from Alberta Cycle.
I feel I should be OK with using a heavier weight Oil. My reasons for this, is that the Bike is Air-cooled and it's only means of internal Cooling is the Oil going around in the Motor. When the Heat starts to build up and the Oil reaches it's point of breaking down, the heavier weight should help protect the Motor better.
Also, My Wife has no intention of driving her Scooter around when its colder. She says that's why she has a Car. So on a pleasant day, the Scooter will be on the Roads near you.
Dean
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.
2009 LK150 Vespa (my Wife's)
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.
2009 LK150 Vespa (my Wife's)
Nothing wrong with the Mutol oil.
Remember that oil viscosity ratings are based on arbitrarily derived criteria to facilitate classification and comparison. A viscosity designation of zero weight does not mean an oil actually has no viscosity! As a matter of fact there are even oils rated at a negative viscosity rating but, let me assure you, they don't flow the other way ;-)
Oil viscosity ratings were created when there were no synthetic oil stocks outside of exotic, experimental laboratories. Naturally occurring oil stocks have limitations in how big a viscosity range they can cover with out troublesome, viscosity improving additives.
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In case you don't know the first number refers to an oil's viscosity rating when cold, the second number to its hot rating and the "w" means it meets a standard for winter use.
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Synthetic oils can have a much greater viscosity range with no viscosity improvers at all. A certain US motorcycle company specifies 20w-50 oil for their engines. This used to be a difficult oil to make and thus cost more. Now, oil manufacturers actually under-rate their synthetic oils otherwise the owners might not buy their oil! Yup, a 5w-50 or 10w-50 oil is sold as 20w-50 to keep the dim bulbs happily buying their product. The market place can be a very strange place at times!
I recommended the Mobil 1 0w-40 oil because it is a high quality oil rated for diesel use. In recent years, almost all oils rated for gasoline use have had good additives removed to prolong the life of the increasing complicated exhaust catalytic converters. In your case, the Mutol oil used to have a SG/MA rating (very, very good) but they too have removed additives and are now rated to the SL or SM standard.
Twist and go scooter engines do not use catalytic converters (yet!), have a very small oil capacity and are run close to their maximum rpm all the time. This is VERY hard on oil and a good quality oil really makes a difference.
That all said, the Mutol oil will be just fine.
Remember that oil viscosity ratings are based on arbitrarily derived criteria to facilitate classification and comparison. A viscosity designation of zero weight does not mean an oil actually has no viscosity! As a matter of fact there are even oils rated at a negative viscosity rating but, let me assure you, they don't flow the other way ;-)
Oil viscosity ratings were created when there were no synthetic oil stocks outside of exotic, experimental laboratories. Naturally occurring oil stocks have limitations in how big a viscosity range they can cover with out troublesome, viscosity improving additives.
-----
In case you don't know the first number refers to an oil's viscosity rating when cold, the second number to its hot rating and the "w" means it meets a standard for winter use.
-----
Synthetic oils can have a much greater viscosity range with no viscosity improvers at all. A certain US motorcycle company specifies 20w-50 oil for their engines. This used to be a difficult oil to make and thus cost more. Now, oil manufacturers actually under-rate their synthetic oils otherwise the owners might not buy their oil! Yup, a 5w-50 or 10w-50 oil is sold as 20w-50 to keep the dim bulbs happily buying their product. The market place can be a very strange place at times!
I recommended the Mobil 1 0w-40 oil because it is a high quality oil rated for diesel use. In recent years, almost all oils rated for gasoline use have had good additives removed to prolong the life of the increasing complicated exhaust catalytic converters. In your case, the Mutol oil used to have a SG/MA rating (very, very good) but they too have removed additives and are now rated to the SL or SM standard.
Twist and go scooter engines do not use catalytic converters (yet!), have a very small oil capacity and are run close to their maximum rpm all the time. This is VERY hard on oil and a good quality oil really makes a difference.
That all said, the Mutol oil will be just fine.