Getting up to snuff
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How many "caps" on top of the battery?
3 means it is a 6v
6 means it is a 12v
If it is a Femsa ignition, it should be 6v.
If the resting voltage is 5.6v, it's very low on charge. Hook up a trickle charger that has a 6v setting (Canadian Tire used to carry them). When the scoot is running, the voltage across the battery should be 6.8v to 7.6v.
Before worrying about the regulator, check the wires from the regulator to to the stator (two yellows). Breaks are common. Pull the flywheel and check the wires internally as well.
3 means it is a 6v
6 means it is a 12v
If it is a Femsa ignition, it should be 6v.
If the resting voltage is 5.6v, it's very low on charge. Hook up a trickle charger that has a 6v setting (Canadian Tire used to carry them). When the scoot is running, the voltage across the battery should be 6.8v to 7.6v.
Before worrying about the regulator, check the wires from the regulator to to the stator (two yellows). Breaks are common. Pull the flywheel and check the wires internally as well.
Battery has 3 caps, its 6v, I'm going to get it charged up. I'm still trying to track down and isolate my troubles. I'm checking for shorts in the harness and tracking down the gremlins. My flywheel is the old type with the circlip, so no puller is required as far as I can tell. I don't have a proper tool for holding the flywheel from spinning though.. Maybe I'll wait till we do our workshop as I don't have a torque wrench either for reinstalling it.
Are those bizarre 8amp fuses available locally? Or is it best to somehow wire up a new fuse block which takes modern fuses?
Also John, I found this on SIP's website. Appears vespatronic makes a kit for a femsa crank taper? http://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/produ ... r_50004600
Are those bizarre 8amp fuses available locally? Or is it best to somehow wire up a new fuse block which takes modern fuses?
Also John, I found this on SIP's website. Appears vespatronic makes a kit for a femsa crank taper? http://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/produ ... r_50004600
Don't rewire!!
That way lies shame, disgrace and ruin.
I work on car restoration and it is amazing the amount of work people will go to, and damage they'll cause, when just a simple repair would have sufficed.
The fuses are not commonly available but they are available so get a few spares. There are ways of testing the wiring without putting that fuse at risk.
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The Vespatronic/variatronic system is a good one and can be installed carefully so that no holes are drilled or original wires cut. You would have to switch to a 12v battery and bulbs through that is not a big deal.
That way lies shame, disgrace and ruin.
I work on car restoration and it is amazing the amount of work people will go to, and damage they'll cause, when just a simple repair would have sufficed.
The fuses are not commonly available but they are available so get a few spares. There are ways of testing the wiring without putting that fuse at risk.
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The Vespatronic/variatronic system is a good one and can be installed carefully so that no holes are drilled or original wires cut. You would have to switch to a 12v battery and bulbs through that is not a big deal.
No rewiring is or will happen, I aim to stay honourable in the eyes of fellow owners! I'm only testing for shorts and verifying connections at the moment. The ignition side of the system is working fine, it's just the lighting and charging side that has issues. I'm focusing on the two yellow AC wires, like you said, that go from stator->junction box->rectifier. Verifying that they aren't shorted and I have AC voltage coming off of them.
I'll work on sourcing some of those fuses.
The vespatronic kit or other is only going to happen if the existing femsa stator and cdi begin to give me problems. Just saw it, and it seems like a simpler solution than having to swap the crank out to a p style.
I'll work on sourcing some of those fuses.
The vespatronic kit or other is only going to happen if the existing femsa stator and cdi begin to give me problems. Just saw it, and it seems like a simpler solution than having to swap the crank out to a p style.
Thanks everyone who helped ever so much!! John, Angelo, Graham, and Yarko I owe you guys!
Signals are all hooked up and working! Horn works. Brake light works for both front and back brake.
Only not so okay thing we found is that the rotary valve has some leakage, which is what was causing the leaking fuel. It idles good, and I took it for a test down the alley a few times and it seemed good. I'm gonna ride it as is as long as it lasts.
As per the Rotary Pad repair I was speaking of to John, this is the thread I had seen. $150 and two weeks turn around apparently.
http://modernvespa.com/forum/topic97387
Signals are all hooked up and working! Horn works. Brake light works for both front and back brake.
Only not so okay thing we found is that the rotary valve has some leakage, which is what was causing the leaking fuel. It idles good, and I took it for a test down the alley a few times and it seemed good. I'm gonna ride it as is as long as it lasts.
As per the Rotary Pad repair I was speaking of to John, this is the thread I had seen. $150 and two weeks turn around apparently.
http://modernvespa.com/forum/topic97387