Getting up to snuff

nick · Post by **nick** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:58 pm

So I gave the Rally a quick look over tonight and here are my findings. I'll group them into engine and electrical.
Engine:
Starts fairly easily. Choke out, no throttle, from cold it usually starts 3rd kick. Throttle bogs for a second when you give it any. Other than that it seems ok thus far. Checked and its running a 50/120 idle jet, 160 air jet, BE3 mixer, and a 116 main jet. Adjusted the air mixture screw and it responds better the more its screwed counter clockwise, but it still seems a tad boggy. The jets were clean visually, I didn't have any carb cleaner to spray them with though. A 55/160 is the standard idle jet? Am I running too rich on that for our altitude?

Electrical:
Headlight works. Taillight works with running light and both front and rear brake. I may need some guidance/help hooking the signals and signal switch back up as the wiring is fairly tight up in the headset. Horn worked initially, but I suspect either a short or a bad light/horn switch as it only worked while the lights were turned off.

Should have a workshop and get some other eyes on it. A carb kit is on order, but I found today that I need an airbox rubber, and possibly a new air filter. Heres a video of it idling

jbcollier · Post by **jbcollier** » Wed Apr 11, 2012 6:35 am

Are you revving it with the air filter cover on and the intake hose hooked up? Will bog otherwise.

Torn air "filter" not serious as it is just a wire mesh. Order another one but it's not the problem. Get a new air box rubber.

I have the factory manual and the standard jetting is:

Main - 118

Idle - 50

Air corrector - 160

Air corrector jet cover - 120

Mixer - BE3

Starter - 60

Get a carb overhaul kit as well as a new float, float pin, inlet screen, inlet needle and the correct main.

Not unusual for the horn to only work with the lights off on an AC scoot.

Is the wiring still in place for the signals?

Recommend we check the timing at the same time.

jbcollier · Post by **jbcollier** » Wed Apr 11, 2012 6:39 am

... except it's not an AC scoot.

Horn is probably a bad connection.

How's the battery?

jaelee · Post by **jaelee** » Wed Apr 11, 2012 11:07 am

how are the cylinder gaskets and engine seals?

and it sounds like a lean bog

nick · Post by **nick** » Wed Apr 11, 2012 11:28 am

Parts are ordered. Wiring is in place for the signals, I need to fix a few of the eyelet ground wires on the signals as they were broke off at the eyelet. I'll need some help with the bolt that screws from the headset into the signal bracket in the front. I couldn't get them to stick out enough to grab on. Hopefully they aren't fubar'ed.

I've seen conflicting reports as to if the horn is AC or DC on battery model Rally's. I've also found about 5 different wiring schematics for femsa Rally 200's..

Battery works. Holds a charge from what I can tell. Haven't checked the voltage yet, but it's got enough juice to power the headlights fairly well when not running.

Haven't pulled the cylinder off yet. I don't have a proper torque wrench for re-installation. I suspect its lean also. Turning the mixture screw counterclockwise(richening) made it respond better. We'll see how it is after a good clean and install of the stock main jet.

**EDIT**
Forgot to mention the bogging while revving was with everything put back together. The air filter cover was on and the intake hose was hooked up.

jbcollier · Post by **jbcollier** » Thu Apr 12, 2012 6:50 am

Before rejecting, though your main is small, let's check the timing.

nick · Post by **nick** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:00 am

For sure!

So I've got all the signal wiring sorted out, power is going to where it's supposed to. Only thing I'm not sure about is the location of the signal flasher. I suspect it is dead and I want to test it. Are there any local vendors who sell 6v flasher units? I've heard I could possibly use a 12v unit, but it will blink really slowly..

Mounting the front signals is another issue. I think I'm going to have to remove the throttle and shifters tubes from the headset because it appears the previous owner cut the bolt that they mount to flush to the front of the headset. only way to get the old bolt out and a new one in is without the tubes. Is this an enormous task? I need to maybe grab a copy of the Haynes manual for my era scoot.

Angelo · Post by **Angelo** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 11:01 am

Removing the tubes shouldn't be a big deal (it will also give you the oppurtunity to regrease everything) extracting the bolt(s) is always
fun!

jaelee · Post by **jaelee** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 12:30 pm

I've always found the haynes manuals to be useless. I would go to scooterhelp.com, stellaspeed.com, scooterotica.org, scooterbbs, etc... i think napa has 6v blinker boxes. and if you have to use a 12v flasher unit you could always use higher voltage bulbs.

jbcollier · Post by **jbcollier** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:02 pm

Yes, worse than useless as they also sometimes have incorrect specs. Keep a look out for a factory manual.

jbcollier · Post by **jbcollier** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 6:38 am

... and you are more than welcome to borrow my factory manual.

Sorry for not offering earlier, too busy to be thinking clearly.

jbcollier · Post by **jbcollier** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:20 pm

Duh!

Which I forgot to bring today, sorry.

-------

Signals are required if it was manufactured after October 1, 1973.

nick · Post by **nick** » Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:37 pm

Thats ok, no worries! Maybe whenever Audrey and my parts come in and we do a workshop I can browse it. I'm going to order one on my next parts order, but that might not be for a little bit still. I'm not in an immediate rush to pull them. I took a couple pictures of the tubes tonight so you can have a look. Probably would be a good idea to clean it up a bit under there..
Throttle tube:

Shifter tube:

jbcollier · Post by **jbcollier** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:26 am

Looks to me that the tubes will have to come out. To do that you'll have to remove the brake cable on the throttle side and the clutch cable on the shift tube side. The gear and throttle pulleys can just be disconnected and left in place. Have a close look at the cable inners and change them if they are at all suspect.

nick · Post by **nick** » Wed Apr 18, 2012 11:02 am

Got a proper measurement off of the battery and it is 6v(5.6v). When running it is still displaying some weirdness. I'm getting a fluke brought over and were going to check my rectifier out. It appears that my battery is not charging when running, and now doesn't have enough amperage to push the horn or signal flasher. Headlight is way dimmer than it initially was. I'll know for sure this weekend. There are no 6v rectifier reproduction units from what I've found. My dad is an electronics engineer, so we can make a new one that'll work for this season if it is indeed dead. Or else go full AC battery-less.

Didn't manage to get the tubes pulled, I need a second set of eyes and hands to get that done. Our parts should be here this week from what I've heard.