My Vespa Is Apparently Inadequate

Yarko · Post by **Yarko** » Thu Aug 02, 2012 2:18 pm

...for the Class 6 road test. My brake light isn't working and if I drop below 70kmph on the Whitemud I fail automatically. Any suggestions?

jbcollier · Post by **jbcollier** » Thu Aug 02, 2012 5:20 pm

Hey Yarko,

I'll see if I can dig out the GS for you this weekend.

coyoteran · Post by **coyoteran** » Thu Aug 02, 2012 5:21 pm

Take the on-lot test from a motorcycle training academy. I can't remember where I did mine but I had my license paperwork in hand the day I passed the course.

Oh, and get your brake light fixed! What vespa do you have?

T

jbcollier · Post by **jbcollier** » Thu Aug 02, 2012 5:40 pm

Unfortunately, no more on lot tests. Some provide a bike for the test for free if you take the course.

david · Post by **david** » Thu Aug 02, 2012 5:53 pm

You could take your test at a Downtown location (I can get you the name) and avoid the Whitemud.

nick · Post by **nick** » Thu Aug 02, 2012 7:08 pm

Oh the days of testing out of Top Gear.. Ride down the block, slalom through 3 pylons, and back to Top Gear. Those were the days...

LibertineAudrey · Post by **LibertineAudrey** » Thu Aug 02, 2012 7:12 pm

I always thought the rule was that if you needed a class 6 for the vehicle in question, you could use that vehicle for the test.

Call other testers, some are more lenient than others it seems.

jbcollier · Post by **jbcollier** » Thu Aug 02, 2012 8:28 pm

They won't test using an older vehicles that does not have signals, etc.

Yarko · Post by **Yarko** » Thu Aug 02, 2012 8:46 pm

The signals the examiner was not so worried about. I think if the brake light gets resolved it should be fine apart for the slowness on the Whitemud. It could be that when I adjusted my brakes a few weeks back I made the rear so tight that it does not break the contact in the switch when I use it. I'll adjust the switch tomorrow and see if the light comes on. If it comes to it, I'll just rent a bike from a teaching place.

It's a 68 Sprint.

Yarko · Post by **Yarko** » Fri Aug 03, 2012 12:11 pm

The brake switch disconnects the signal entirely and the taillight assembly seems to have no issues; must be an issue higher up.

Yarko · Post by **Yarko** » Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:09 pm

Turns out that the brake switch had melted at some point. If anyone has a switch that makes contact when pressed, I would pay good money to borrow it.

redbike · Post by **redbike** » Fri Aug 03, 2012 7:51 pm

You might want to check these guys out in Stony Plain. http://www.recyclemotorcycles.com They have lots of used and wrecked parts. You could probably call to see if they have it.

pk50 · Post by **pk50** » Fri Aug 03, 2012 9:42 pm

i may have one on my parts pk50 i don't know if its compatible?

Yarko · Post by **Yarko** » Fri Aug 03, 2012 10:42 pm

The switch is very rudimentary; when the rear brake pedal is depressed, the switch is pressed and the current has a path to travel through. When the pedal is pressed, the switch is depressed and the current does not travel through the switch. I have an old switch that I tried to convert to a working one but it's been fruitless.

jbcollier · Post by **jbcollier** » Fri Aug 03, 2012 11:02 pm

There are two switches:

1) Normally Closed. The released pedal holds the connection open and the switch makes the connection when the brake pedal is depressed. DC/battery scoots and higher output AC scoots

2) Normally Open. The released pedal makes the connection and the switch breaks the connection when the brake pedal is depressed. Low power AC scoots.

It may be that you have a normally open switch with a higher output AC circuit. This would melt the switch over time. If so, we would have to rewire it so it is not a short-to-ground-for-off circuit.